The best way to travel around Iceland is by campervan — you have the freedom to go where you want and sleep where you want. We rented a Jeep Super Camper from Camper Iceland which was a little more expensive than the simpler options but worth every króna. You can compare campervan and car hire rates at DiscoverCars before you book.
Our Jeep Super Camper from Camper Iceland
After picking up the campervan and stocking up at Bonus supermarket, we drove out to Þingvellir National Park. We arrived around 6.30pm and it was windy and rainy. We set up our bed in horrible weather — our first time doing it, which took a while — and then discovered we had left the bed linens and pots and pans back at the hire place. The Camper Iceland team drove out the following morning and delivered everything. Brilliant customer service.
Our Golden Circle route started from Þingvellir and headed up towards Gullfoss before dropping back down to Seljalandsfoss waterfall. It can easily be done in a day.
This was day 2 of our 12-day Iceland itinerary. For the full guide to planning an Iceland road trip, read the Ultimate Iceland Road Trip Guide.
The Golden Circle
Þingvellir National Park
Breakfast was Skyr — and it was incredible. Once we got our camping essentials delivered we headed to explore Þingvellir, the starting point of our Golden Circle day.
We were basically walking between the North American and the Eurasian tectonic plates. The rock walls rise on either side of you and you walk in a rift valley between two continental plates that are still slowly pulling apart. It sounds improbable and looks exactly as dramatic as it should. This was our introduction to the extraordinary landscapes of Iceland that lay ahead.
From here we drove north towards Geysir. On the way we stopped at Efstidalur — an ice cream farm where you eat ice cream while looking through a glass wall at the same cows that made it. Do this regardless of the weather. It is one of the most charming things in Iceland.
Geysir and Strokkur
Looking out towards Strokkur Geyser on the Golden Circle
After our ice cream detour we finally reached Geysir. It had stopped raining so we got out and walked the geothermal area. The colours of the soil were extraordinary — vivid blues, greens and oranges from the mineral deposits. Steam rising from the ground at every angle.
Strokkur erupts every few minutes. You stand around a rope barrier and then it goes — a column of boiling water shooting 20-30 metres into the air with almost no warning. Everyone cheers. You wait and it does it again. It is a completely wonderful thing to watch.
Gullfoss
I think the highlight of our Golden Circle day was Gullfoss. Even with the rain starting again, this waterfall does not disappoint.
Majestic Gullfoss, the highlight of the Golden Circle
There is something about the shape and power of Gullfoss that makes it different from other waterfalls. It drops in two stages at right angles to each other and the volume of water is extraordinary. A hydroelectric dam was planned here in the early 20th century — a local woman threatened to throw herself in if it was built. It was not built. Standing at the edge you understand why she felt so strongly.
Gullfoss Tip
Walk down to the lower viewing platform even if it is raining. Getting slightly wet is worth the perspective of being level with the falls rather than above them.
The Secret Lagoon
After Gullfoss we considered the Secret Lagoon — it is in Flúðir and significantly cheaper and quieter than the Blue Lagoon. The weather was so bad we did not stop but if conditions are reasonable it is worth it. Unlike the Blue Lagoon it is uncrowded and feels like a genuine local pool rather than a resort.
Onward to Seljalandsfoss
With the weather deteriorating we headed straight down to Seljalandsfoss to camp for the night. We soon realised why all the other campervans were leaving — we stuck it out in the middle of the car park with high winds and rain that continued into the next morning.
The next day was the South Coast — more rain, more extraordinary scenery.
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All Iceland Posts
- Epic Iceland Road Trip Itinerary — 12 Days
- Iceland's South Coast — Waterfalls and Glaciers
- Discovering Iceland's Eastern Fjords
- North Iceland — Volcanoes and Waterfalls
- Iceland's Westfjords — Hot Spring Hunting
- From Snæfellsnes to Reykjavik
- Is Iceland's Blue Lagoon Overrated?
- The Best Hikes in Iceland
Frequently Asked Questions
The Golden Circle is a roughly 300km loop from Reykjavik covering three main sites: Þingvellir National Park (where the tectonic plates meet and Iceland's ancient parliament was held), Geysir (the geothermal area with the famous Strokkur geyser), and Gullfoss (a spectacular two-tiered waterfall). Most people add the Secret Lagoon and Kerið crater as bonus stops.
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